How to Install Pull Out Drawers in Kitchen Cabinets Easily!

Imagine reaching for a pot in the back of your lower cabinet, kneeling down, and digging through a messy pile. Stuff falls out, and you get frustrated every time. Pull out drawers fix that completely. They glide everything right to you with one easy pull. In just a weekend, you can turn chaotic cabinets into smooth, organized spaces that make cooking feel effortless.

Choose the right slide-out kit that matches your cabinet depth and width, then empty the cabinet fully before starting. Remove the old fixed shelf if there is one, measure twice for perfect placement, and mount the drawer slides level on both sides. Build or assemble the drawers securely, attach them to the slides, test the glide several times, and finally add soft-close bumpers plus organizers to keep everything tidy and quiet.

Choosing the Perfect Pull Out Drawer Kit

When my friend Sarah wanted to organize her spice cabinet, she grabbed the first kit she saw online and ended up with drawers too shallow for her tall bottles. Everything rattled around, and she had to return it. The lesson? Picking the right kit saves hours of hassle later.

First, measure your cabinet inside width, depth, and height carefully. Most kits come in standard sizes like 15-inch, 18-inch, or 21-inch wide, but double-check because even half an inch off means wobbly drawers. Next, decide between full-extension slides that pull all the way out or three-quarter ones that are cheaper but hide some space in the back.

Think about weight too. If you store heavy pots and pans, go for heavy-duty slides rated for 100 pounds or more. Lighter kits work great for spices or utensils. Soft-close features are worth the extra money because they stop slamming noises that wake up kids during late-night snacks.

Finally, consider ready-made drawers versus build-your-own kits. Ready-made ones install faster, perfect if you’re not super handy. Build-your-own lets you customize height exactly for your mixing bowls or canned goods. Either way, read reviews from real kitchens like yours.

A quick tip: buy one extra kit if you’re doing multiple cabinets. That way, if you make a small measuring mistake on the first, you have backup parts without another trip to the store.

• Measure cabinet dimensions accurately before buying
• Choose full-extension and heavy-duty for best results
• Soft-close prevents noise and damage
• Decide between ready-made or customizable kits
• Read reviews and consider buying an extra set

Gathering Tools and Preparing Your Space

Last winter, I helped my neighbor Mike install drawers in his pantry. He started without clearing space and kept tripping over boxes. We wasted an hour just finding room to work. Clear everything out first, trust me.

Start by emptying the entire cabinet. Lay down an old blanket or cardboard on your counter or floor to protect both the cabinet pieces and your new kit from scratches. Good lighting helps too, so open windows or grab a portable light if the cabinet is dark inside.

Basic tools you’ll need include a drill with bits, screwdriver, level, tape measure, pencil, and clamps. A stud finder isn’t necessary inside cabinets, but safety glasses are smart when drilling. If your kit needs wood glue or screws longer than provided, have those ready.

Label everything you remove, like old shelves or doors. Masking tape and a marker work great. That way, if you decide to switch back someday, nothing gets lost. Also, vacuum inside the cabinet to remove dust and crumbs that could mess with smooth sliding later.

One clever trick: take phone pictures at every stage. When you’re tired later and forget how something lined up, those photos save your sanity.

• Clear cabinet and protect work area
• Gather drill, level, tape measure, and safety glasses
• Label removed parts and take progress photos
• Vacuum inside cabinet for clean installation
• Work in good lighting for accuracy

Removing Old Shelves and Cleaning Up

Picture this: my sister had a cabinet with a permanent middle shelf nailed in from the 1980s. We thought we’d just work around it, but the new drawers wouldn’t fit. Out came the pry bar and a little elbow grease.

Most modern cabinets have adjustable shelves with plastic pins. Just pop those out and lift the shelf free. Older ones might have glued or nailed fixed shelves. Use a utility knife to score paint along edges first, then gently pry with a flat bar and hammer.

Once the shelf is out, sand any rough spots where pins or nails were. Smooth surfaces help the new slides mount flat and glide perfectly. Wipe everything down with a mild cleaner to remove grease buildup from years of cooking splatters.

Check the cabinet sides for level. Sometimes houses settle and walls aren’t perfectly straight. If one side is slightly off, you can shim the slides later to compensate. Mark the height where you want drawers to sit with light pencil lines across both sides.

A helpful hint: if your cabinet has a face frame, measure from the inside of that frame, not the outer edge. Face frames can trick you into thinking the space is bigger than it really is.

• Remove adjustable pins or pry fixed shelves carefully
• Sand rough areas and clean grease thoroughly
• Check cabinet sides for level and mark heights
• Measure from inside face frame if present
• Score paint lines before prying to prevent damage

Measuring and Marking Slide Placement

I once installed slides a quarter inch too high, and the drawer rubbed against the cabinet door every time. Tiny mistakes create big annoyances. That’s why measuring twice is never overkill.

Start by deciding how many drawers you want. Two tiers work best in most base cabinets: one shallow for utensils, one deep for pots. Mark the bottom of each slide location with a straight horizontal line using your level.

Measure up from the cabinet bottom the exact height specified in your kit instructions. Usually, leave about an inch clearance at the very bottom for cleaning. Transfer that same measurement to the opposite side and connect with level lines.

For vertical placement, center the slides on the drawer box height. Some kits have adjustable brackets, others need precise marking. Use a square to make sure your pencil lines are perfectly perpendicular to the cabinet bottom.

Pro tip: clamp a straight board along your marked line as a guide when screwing in slides. It keeps everything perfectly aligned while you work alone.

• Decide number of drawers and desired heights
• Mark horizontal lines with level for accuracy
• Measure equally on both sides and double-check
• Leave bottom clearance for easy cleaning
• Use clamped straight board as installation guide

Mounting the Slides and Building Drawers

Here’s where it starts looking amazing. My dad always said the slides are the heart of the system. Mount them straight and strong, and everything else falls into place.

Attach cabinet members first. Most kits use screws into predrilled holes. Drive screws snug but not stripped. If your cabinet sides are particle board, add a dab of wood glue under each screw location for extra hold.

Next, assemble the drawer boxes if your kit requires it. Follow the instructions exactly; corners need to be square. Use a corner clamp or square to check 90-degree angles before glue dries. Predrill screw holes to prevent splitting.

Once boxes are built, attach the drawer members of the slides. Some click in, others screw on. Test fit by sliding the drawer into the cabinet without fully engaging locks. It should glide smoothly with no wobble.

If something binds, loosen screws slightly and adjust. A tiny shim behind one slide often fixes minor alignment issues. Patience here prevents frustration later.

• Screw cabinet slides securely with possible glue
• Assemble drawer boxes square and predrilled
• Attach drawer slide members carefully
• Test fit and adjust for smooth gliding
• Use shims for minor alignment fixes

Testing, Adjusting, and Adding Finishing Touches

The best moment is that first perfect pull. Everything glides out effortlessly, and you wonder how you ever lived without it. But don’t celebrate too soon; test thoroughly first.

Pull each drawer in and out twenty times. Listen for clicking or rubbing. Check that they close evenly and don’t sag when loaded. Adjust front brackets if your kit has them to make drawers sit flush with cabinet fronts.

Add bumpers or soft-close adapters now if not included. They make a huge difference in daily use. Finally, install dividers, utensil trays, or spice racks inside to maximize organization.

Load gradually with real items. Heavy pots go in lower drawers for stability. Lighter things up top. Step back and admire your work; your kitchen just got a serious upgrade.

One last trick: label drawer fronts lightly in pencil until you memorize what’s inside. Erase later when habits form.

• Test glide multiple times and listen for issues
• Adjust for even closing and no sag
• Install soft-close and organizers
• Load heavy items low and label temporarily
• Enjoy the smooth new functionality

Final Thoughts

Turning regular cabinets into pull out wonders changes daily cooking from annoying to enjoyable. You stop losing things in dark corners and start finding everything quickly. The small weekend effort pays off every single day with less stress and more smiles in the kitchen. Grab your tools, pick a cabinet, and give it a try. You’ll wonder why you waited so long.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is it hard to install pull out drawers myself?

Not really, especially if you follow measurements carefully. Most kits come with clear instructions and all hardware. I’ve seen first-timers finish one cabinet in about two hours once they get the hang of it. The trickiest part is keeping everything level, but a cheap level tool fixes that. Start with one small cabinet to build confidence before tackling bigger ones.

Can I add pull out drawers to old cabinets?

Yes, absolutely, and it often breathes new life into outdated kitchens. Older cabinets usually have thicker wood sides that hold screws even better than modern particle board. Just make sure the cabinet is structurally sound without rot or loose joints. If there’s a fixed middle shelf, removing it carefully opens up perfect space for two sliding drawers.

Do I need special tools for this project?

Basic tools you probably already own work fine: drill, screwdriver, level, tape measure, and pencil. A clamp helps hold things steady while screwing alone. If building drawer boxes from scratch, a square and small saw come in handy. Rent or borrow anything fancy you don’t have; the whole project stays pretty simple and low-tech.

Can pull out drawers hold heavy pots and pans?

Definitely, when you choose the right kit. Look for heavy-duty slides rated 100 pounds or more per pair. Full-extension ones distribute weight evenly. My own lower cabinet holds cast iron skillets with no problem years later. Avoid cheap kits under 75 pounds if storing anything heavy.

Is it worth installing pull out drawers in upper cabinets?

Usually not necessary since you can see and reach upper shelves easily. They work best in lower base cabinets where bending and digging happen most. That said, some people love them in tall pantry cabinets for lower sections. Focus on base cabinets first for the biggest daily improvement.

Do I have to remove cabinet doors to install?

No, most kits install completely from inside without touching doors. You might prop doors open or remove them temporarily for easier access, but reinstalling takes minutes. The slides mount to cabinet sides, and drawers sit behind doors just like original shelves did.

Can one person install pull out drawers alone?

Yes, though having a helper makes some steps easier. Clamps and careful planning let solo installers succeed every time. The heaviest part is usually lifting assembled drawers into place, but sliding them onto mounted tracks is manageable alone. Take breaks and work methodically.

Do pull out drawers reduce cabinet storage space?

Actually, they often increase usable space because everything becomes accessible. No more dead zones in the back where items get forgotten. With proper organizers inside drawers, you fit more efficiently than stacked shelves. The small space taken by slides is totally worth the organization gain.